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Forum Home > Modifications > My CJ's going under the knife!

Captain_Morgan
Limited Member
Posts: 132

When we get back from Clayton, I'm redoing the rear suspension on the jeep.  My plans are to get rid of the four link, and do a "two" link.  I'm going to raise the motor, trans, & X-case up as high as I can, do a flat belly skid, and use a ballistic joint as a center link.  (Like a grator-ball set-up)  Then I'm plating the underside w/ 1/4" plate, from the oil pan all the way to the rear axle.  Anyways this is the plan. 

Oh I also bought a new twin-stick set-up at the Tontitown swap meet, it's installed and works great.  As an added bonus is looks good too, the shifters are socket extensions with lug nuts tig welded to them for knobs.

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1981 CJ-7, 44's, Locked F/R, 4.56, Stretched on Beadlocked 37"s.

September 23, 2009 at 8:50 AM Flag Quote & Reply

muddyredneck
Limited Member
Posts: 236

sounds cool is it just a front link and a track bar

September 23, 2009 at 9:47 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Captain_Morgan
Limited Member
Posts: 132

Yeah pretty much.  I've got a buddy that has a graderball setup and a track bar.  It seems to work good for him and the "big" guys, so I think it will work for me.  I have some drill stem laying around the house, so I'm going to try it on the lower links, and for the track bar a piece of DOM should work fine. 

When I raise the X-case I should have enough room for the Ballistic joint directly under the rear output shaft and then I'll Y it and weld solid to the axle.  (This will give me a great spot for the driveline skid - 1/4".  It will add about 300-500 pounds to me rig though.)  Then run a track bar.  I'll keep the same wheel base and springs.  With the four link, the rear seems to want to lift under load.  Instead of pushing the wheels into the dirt/rocks, it wants to unload all the weight.  I think this will cancel that out......or I hope it does.

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1981 CJ-7, 44's, Locked F/R, 4.56, Stretched on Beadlocked 37"s.

September 23, 2009 at 12:32 PM Flag Quote & Reply

vbtj
Limited Member
Posts: 521

Brian what size Ballistic joint are you going to run.   You have to figure the entire rearaxle is going to be putting force on that one bolt and then your  trackbar bolts.  They have better be some big bolts.   I would incourage you to build a real fourlink with triangulated uppers and would be willing to help you out in anyway I can.  I have done my  research on 4 links and know all the rules to building a good one so feel free to call me if I can help.  It can be done cheaper than most people think.

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Rock Solid Fabworks    479-414-1246

Specializing in one-off fabrication with in house CNC plasma cutting.

September 23, 2009 at 8:44 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Captain_Morgan
Limited Member
Posts: 132

The ballistic joint I was looking at was the Billet Ballistic Rod End or the 3.0" FORGED Ultra Duty BALLISTIC joint.  I called them and the guy said either one would work, but the billet one would work better.  The billet rod end can take up to a 3/4" bolt (w/ 70 degrees of articulation) and a 1-1/4" shank.

I would rather do a four link, but I can't afford all the heim/johnny joints, tube adaptors, & jamb nuts.  Plus I'm not smart enough to figure out all the stuff that goes with a 4-link.  Thanks for offering to help, but it's going to take me a while to do what ever it is I'm going to do.  Do you know of a cheap place for all the tube adapters, jamb nuts, & johnny joints?

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1981 CJ-7, 44's, Locked F/R, 4.56, Stretched on Beadlocked 37"s.

September 24, 2009 at 8:39 AM Flag Quote & Reply

vbtj
Limited Member
Posts: 521

Brian I understand wanting to go cheap but I just don't see how that set up wouldn't allow for a ton of rear steer when flexed out.   Let me work you up a figure for a 4-link just for fun it will give me something to do at work tonight.  You can skimp by using square tube and the uppers remember don't have to be real big or thick since they don't come in contact with rocks.  Also they don't need to be adjustable on both ends or nor do they need a johny joint or heim on both ends.   Mine has rubber bushings at the axle and johny joints at the frame and then smaller joints on the uppers.  I think it can be done cheaper than most people think if you don't build it like a comp buggy.

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Rock Solid Fabworks    479-414-1246

Specializing in one-off fabrication with in house CNC plasma cutting.

September 24, 2009 at 8:43 PM Flag Quote & Reply

vbtj
Limited Member
Posts: 521

Well my numbers using 90% of the stuff from Ballistic for a 4 link with triangulated uppers is around $650 which granted isn't cheap but it's considerable  cheaper than if someone bought the Gen-right kit.   That is not installed but you could do that yourself.   If at all interested in the parts I came up with for this just let me know Brian. Oh and that includes using D.O.M. on the uppers and lowers if you take the D.O.M. out the price for everything would be around $500.  That also includes all the brackets frame end and axle end.

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Rock Solid Fabworks    479-414-1246

Specializing in one-off fabrication with in house CNC plasma cutting.

September 24, 2009 at 9:58 PM Flag Quote & Reply

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