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Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

So let me see if I understand this correctly.  If I were to install a 3.25" suspension lift which does not require sye/cv installation, would installing a 1.25" body lift w/ 1" motor lift change anything?  My understanding is that with a body lift, you are raising everything and therefore are not altering drive line angles. 

 

James

December 17, 2010 at 10:44 AM Flag Quote & Reply

SuperD
Limited Member
Posts: 186

the motor mount lift will lower the rear output of the transfer case preventing any driveline angle issues

December 17, 2010 at 11:14 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Allen
Limited Member
Posts: 168

Not sure what an engine lift is but that would most definetly have an effect on the drive line angle.  If I were going to do anything maybe install a transcase drop kit if your lift kit does not come with one for the suspension lift.  The body lift will have no effect on the drive line angles I wouldnt think.....the problem with body lifts is they mess with shifter linkages and steering shafts, but 1" probably wouldnt matter much.

--

91 YJ, AMC 360, 33"x13.50" Swamper LTBs, QuadraJunk Trans Case, SOA lift, 4.5" lift springs,  4.88 gears, Spartan locker up front, 8.8 with discs in the rear, Rock Solid Fab Rock Rails


-Allen C Wendling

December 17, 2010 at 11:18 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

I'm pretty sure that the motor lift eliminates the need for the TC drop kit.  This is all so confusing.:D  I just want to get a setup that allows me to clear 33's with no rubbing.  It's hard to find that setup without having to mess with a SYE/CV setup as well. 

December 17, 2010 at 11:31 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Hemi
Limited Member
Posts: 189

Is your rig a JK? I don't remember - must be getting old.

 

For 33's you should be able to run with a simple budget boost. Depending on the tire you may need spacers or wheels. Anything that gives you 2.5-3" should be good. Full Traction states thattheir 3" lift will not require any driveline modifications. Old Man Emu is also a good lift in this range

 

December 17, 2010 at 1:04 PM Flag Quote & Reply

arveetek
Member
Posts: 948

The 3.25" kit should give you plenty of clearance for 33's without needing any extra lift.  If you come to the trail ride tomorrow, you can see my TJ with the kit installed, and you'll see how much room I have.


I would wait and get tires first before installing any more lift.  Worst case scenario, you would rub while flexing a lot on trails.  Normal driving would not see any rubbing at all.


Casey


--

95 Chevy Tahoe 2 door, 6.5L turbodiesel, 285/75R16 Kenda Klever M/T's on Toyota steelies, some other goodies.  Overlanding Fun

December 17, 2010 at 1:13 PM Flag Quote & Reply

vbtj
Limited Member
Posts: 521

Body lift does not effect the driveline what so ever.   You are also wasting your money on the motor mount lift if you are not doing a flat belly skid at the same time.  They started making the motor mount lifts for people who did the small body lifts and flat skids together.   Like SuperD said though it will lower the rear of your T-case if you do, do it.

--

Rock Solid Fabworks    479-414-1246

Specializing in one-off fabrication with in house CNC plasma cutting.

December 17, 2010 at 8:45 PM Flag Quote & Reply

SuperD
Limited Member
Posts: 186

I'd say it's not a waste of money, it prevents any mods to the shift linkages as well as the radiator shroud

December 19, 2010 at 3:15 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

Ordered the Rough Country 3.25" today.:D  Also ordered a new steering stabilizer.

December 20, 2010 at 6:47 PM Flag Quote & Reply

arveetek
Member
Posts: 948

James,


The instructions with the RC lift tell you to drill a new hole in the track bar bracket, to recenter the axle.  The track bar is the brace that goes from the driver's side frame rail to the passenger's side bracket on the axle.  This locates the axle in the center of the Jeep and keeps it from moving from side to side.


When you lift the Jeep, the axle shifts towards the driver's side a bit.  The best way to correct this issue is to install an adjustable track bar.  However, the RC kit says to just drill a new hole in the bracket on the axle.  I would strongly suggest that you DO NOT drill this hole!  I have seen several of the brackets get ripped apart from this.  I would suggest purchasing an adjustable track bar.  However, myself and many others have found that just leaving the OEM track bar in place in the orginal hole works just fine.  My front axle is shifted slightly to the driver's side, but this does not affect handling at all.  You can't even tell by looking at it.  One of these days I'll save up for an adjustable track bar.


So, to sum up: ignore RC's instructions on drilling a new hole.  Just leave the track bar where it is, and you'll be fine.


Casey


--

95 Chevy Tahoe 2 door, 6.5L turbodiesel, 285/75R16 Kenda Klever M/T's on Toyota steelies, some other goodies.  Overlanding Fun

December 23, 2010 at 10:13 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

Thanks a bunch Casey.  I will NOT drill the hole and I'll start looking into adjustable track bars.  Is there one brand that's better than the other?


James

December 23, 2010 at 11:33 AM Flag Quote & Reply

arveetek
Member
Posts: 948

I haven't really looked into them enough at this point to recommend a brand.

December 23, 2010 at 12:44 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

Do you advise getting front and rear bars?

December 23, 2010 at 12:59 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Hemi
Limited Member
Posts: 189

arveetek at December 23, 2010 at 10:13 AM

James,


The instructions with the RC lift tell you to drill a new hole in the track bar bracket, to recenter the axle.  The track bar is the brace that goes from the driver's side frame rail to the passenger's side bracket on the axle.  This locates the axle in the center of the Jeep and keeps it from moving from side to side.


When you lift the Jeep, the axle shifts towards the driver's side a bit.  The best way to correct this issue is to install an adjustable track bar.  However, the RC kit says to just drill a new hole in the bracket on the axle.  I would strongly suggest that you DO NOT drill this hole!  I have seen several of the brackets get ripped apart from this.  I would suggest purchasing an adjustable track bar.  However, myself and many others have found that just leaving the OEM track bar in place in the orginal hole works just fine.  My front axle is shifted slightly to the driver's side, but this does not affect handling at all.  You can't even tell by looking at it.  One of these days I'll save up for an adjustable track bar.


So, to sum up: ignore RC's instructions on drilling a new hole.  Just leave the track bar where it is, and you'll be fine.


Casey


I am putting JKS adjustable front and rear trackbars on as part of my lift. Will let you see them when done, I have talked to a few people and this has a good reputation, but we will see in a couple of weeks.

 

http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=ADJTRACK&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=Trackbar_Components 

 

 

December 25, 2010 at 12:02 PM Flag Quote & Reply

arveetek
Member
Posts: 948

Chancho at December 23, 2010 at 12:59 PM

Do you advise getting front and rear bars?

The RC kit comes with a track bar relocation bracket for the rear.  It seems to be a pretty well built piece.  I haven't had any issues with mine, nor have I heard of anyone having issues with it.   An adjustable bar would be even better, but not necessary in my opinion.


Casey


--

95 Chevy Tahoe 2 door, 6.5L turbodiesel, 285/75R16 Kenda Klever M/T's on Toyota steelies, some other goodies.  Overlanding Fun

December 25, 2010 at 12:46 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

I'm leaning towards front and rear adjustable bars but now I'm hearing that those will require 2" bump stop extensions so they won't rub the diff. cover.  Can anyone explain bump stop extensions to me?

December 25, 2010 at 1:18 PM Flag Quote & Reply

SuperD
Limited Member
Posts: 186
Bump stop extensions are just simple spacers that mount between your existing stops & their mounts, most are aluminum or poly, kinda like a body lift puck. Mine are extended 4" to keep my tires out of my fenders. Most of the better trac bars come with relocation brackets that prevent the straighter than stock bars from hitting your diff covers. I don't think you really need the bars yet, unless yours are worn out, and don't redrill the holes unless you plan on beefing the bracket up some, like someone else mentioned, they will rip out under load, that factory metal is marginal without the extra hole in it
December 25, 2010 at 2:54 PM Flag Quote & Reply

SuperD
Limited Member
Posts: 186
I also am using the JKS tracbars, heim joints are a lil noisy but have had no issues with them in 30,000 miles
December 25, 2010 at 2:58 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Chancho
Limited Member
Posts: 116

I'm going with new track bars.  My rig sat around for a long time with the previous owner and I won't take a chance, especially with track bars.  Track bar failure at higher speeds does not usually benefit the occupants. 

December 25, 2010 at 5:08 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Hemi
Limited Member
Posts: 189

arveetek at December 25, 2010 at 12:46 PM

Chancho at December 23, 2010 at 12:59 PM

Do you advise getting front and rear bars?

The RC kit comes with a track bar relocation bracket for the rear.  It seems to be a pretty well built piece.  I haven't had any issues with mine, nor have I heard of anyone having issues with it.   An adjustable bar would be even better, but not necessary in my opinion.


Casey


I agree a relocation bracket will do just as well as a trackbar.

 

The kit I am going with comes with front and rear trackbars. May be overkill, but I can live with that :)

 

If you are doing a coil change might as well put front bump stops in. The front coils need to be pulled to put them in, and so is a pain to do them later. Rear ones can be done at any time.

 

 

December 27, 2010 at 10:53 PM Flag Quote & Reply

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