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Forum Home > Modifications > Sand, soda, or dry ice blasting?

Flexer
Member
Posts: 265

So as my first restoration project, I need a little learnin'.... 

From what I read on the internet (which always tells the truth except for when it doesn't) there are some pros and cons to each kind of blasting...

sand blasting tends to heat and possibly warp and for-sure work-harden body panels.  It's ok for small durable parts cleanup but not so great for big sheet things like hoods/fenders/floors.

soda blasting cleans up the metal nice and has little residual crap other than the rust/paint coming off the parts.  It doesn't work harden or heat the metal.  HOWEVER... apparently it causes some issues on getting paint to stick as it leaves a thing caustic coating on the metal which can cause some long term paint issues.  I think the cost for soda blasting is slightly higher as I think the media cannot be reused as much as it can be with sand.

Finally, the latest in slickness is supposedly dry-ice blasting.  I know they use it for mold remediation in home repair.  There is a guy in Fayetteville that will do it, but I haven't called yet for a quote.

Does anyone have experience with dry ice blasting a car body?  What kind of cost and I walking into?

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'94 Jeep YJ 4.0L, 35" BFGs, Atlas 2 tcase, D44 front, 14b rear, detroit front, ARB rear, 4.56 gears, Warn winch, Onboard air, some rock rash. 

WrenchingSeasonBlog

August 7, 2013 at 8:34 PM Flag Quote & Reply

ridinwitcj73
Member
Posts: 146

How about electrolysis rust removal? All good metal is left. All old rust, paint, bondo, grease, junk will just bubble right off. I have never done this but read about it online...  :D

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73 CJ5 based Juggy, AMC360/TF999/D300/D44 Axles, A work in Progress!


August 7, 2013 at 9:01 PM Flag Quote & Reply

Flexer
Member
Posts: 265

I'm looking to get paint, bondo, surface rust all off.   Using electrolysis will work for rust but not really on paint or bondo.  Good idea though.  That might work for some underbody parts just fine.

It would also be tough to do that on (say) a hood...in the garage...

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'94 Jeep YJ 4.0L, 35" BFGs, Atlas 2 tcase, D44 front, 14b rear, detroit front, ARB rear, 4.56 gears, Warn winch, Onboard air, some rock rash. 

WrenchingSeasonBlog

August 7, 2013 at 9:11 PM Flag Quote & Reply

ridinwitcj73
Member
Posts: 146

From what little experience I have had with sandblasting is that in the right hands its pretty safe on most all parts except for small thin sheet metal parts. We sand blasted body panels all the time at the rod shop. You just have to realize your not going to get it all in one pass. Go over each panel lightly a couple times with time for metal to cool inbetween. Dale had been doing it for years and was a perfectionist. If he was using it I would think it would work for most especially on older vehicles that tend to have thicker sheet metal than newer vehicles. The soda blasting I have heard of but never used. But from what I understand its more for like chrome parts and those small thin parts you can't get with a sandblaster. The dry ice thing I know nothing about. Now I only heard of it but years ago there was a guy over in Berryville that used walnut hulls.....

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73 CJ5 based Juggy, AMC360/TF999/D300/D44 Axles, A work in Progress!


August 8, 2013 at 9:33 AM Flag Quote & Reply

11JKU
Limited Member
Posts: 116

walnut shells, heard of that too. On a solid ol bronco, wouldn't sweat the minor metal? removal. they are rock soild as long as u paint the panels. Notorious for floor panels and 1/4 panel rot...so if those areas are good, i'd be confidant to go with sand . Side note, know there are a few vendors that sell new metal for old broncos..little pricey, but if your that worried, it'd ..perhaps be an option too?

August 10, 2013 at 2:05 AM Flag Quote & Reply

Flexer
Member
Posts: 265

Yup, I'm buying a few panels (including floors, rockers, and pillars (although i might chop and butt-weld in some of the pillar instead of a full replace.  After talking with a fellow in F-ville and he gave me a $2k quote for dry ice I'm thinking soda for $400 sounds reasonable.  I plan to have the blaster also prime it... so if he doesn't clean off the soda well enough and the primer doesn't stick it's all on him!  

It's not the metal removal from sand I think it trouble... it's 1- work hardening, 2- heat/warp potential 


--

'94 Jeep YJ 4.0L, 35" BFGs, Atlas 2 tcase, D44 front, 14b rear, detroit front, ARB rear, 4.56 gears, Warn winch, Onboard air, some rock rash. 

WrenchingSeasonBlog

August 10, 2013 at 4:58 PM Flag Quote & Reply

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